There are few Brits who have never been to Turkey. The country has long been a much-loved holiday destination for the British and is a bit of a 90s holiday throwback, but I had never been.
For my first visit, I decided on the turquoise coast of Bodrum, which also happens to be the most exclusive part of the Turkish Riviera. Once a small fishing village of only a few thousand people, it has transformed over the last half-century into one of Turkey’s most popular vacation hotspots.
Though small, Bodrum has a big reputation for glitz and glamour and is popular amongst celebrities and those interested in indulging in the finer things in life. However, I didn’t find this out until after I had booked my cheap flight with EasyJet and then started to wonder if I could afford the trip – lol!
If you have cash to flash (make it rain), you’ll feel at home here. On the other hand, if your means are more modest, don’t worry, as Bodrum also accommodates the average budget and being away from the pretentiousness is, in my opinion, the best way to experience “real” life.
A bit of history
Known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, Bodrum was once home to the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, also known as the tomb of Mausolus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Currency
The official currency of Turkey is the Turkish Lira, which was first introduced in 1844. The abbreviation for lira is TRY.
One lira is made up of 100 kurus – and Kurus had previously been the primary unit of currency within the Ottoman Empire.
Getting to Bodrum
Milas–Bodrum is Bodrum’s international airport. A taxi from here to Bodrum city centre costs approximately 900 Turkish Lira (around £20).
On a budget?
If arriving at the International terminal, walk to the domestic terminal to catch the next Havaş bus service. The Havas Airport Buses drive directly to Bodrum Bus Station in the city centre. The around 45-minute drive will cost you 25 TL, but they are infrequent and may be full.
Accommodation
Whether looking for a luxury resort or a low-cost hotel, Bodrum has accommodations to suit all needs. Most package tourism resorts are in Gümbet, about a 10-minute drive from the city centre.
As it was my first time visiting the country, it was more important for me to be in the mix of things and experience Turkish culture, so I opted for a cute, authentic, family-run boutique hotel in the centre of Bodrum called Costa Bodrum City, which I highly recommend. It was also near the best bars, sights and restaurants.
Book your accommodation well in advance if you plan to visit Bodrum during the summer, as the area is small and strictly regulated, meaning prices escalate.
For a cheaper alternative, Bitez also has some good hotels and apartments to rent, and it’s only 15 minutes away from the city.
Getting around
Due to its size, Bodrum is an easy destination to explore in a few days, giving you time to chill and explore farther afield. It’s also easy to navigate as a solo female, and I had no problems.
Turkish is the official language, but most people I came across spoke English. The only Turkish words I had in my arsenal were – Thank you – Teşekkürler and Good morning – Günaydın. Other than that, I had Google Translate to hand.
Things to do in Bodrum
Check out the views from Bodrum windmills
Bodrum windmills form a line along a steep hillside separating Bodrum and Gumbet bays. Visitors can explore the crumbling windmills and admire the spectacular panoramic views overlooking the Aegean Sea and the Greek island of Kos.
The white windmills are made of stone and wooden planks and were used to grind flour from the 18th century until the 1970s. They are now an unmistakable Bodrum landmark that makes the perfect backdrop for pictures snapped at sunset or sunrise.
There’s a little cafe up there as well.
Yacht spotting at the marina
Bodrum is a lively yet sophisticated resort overlooked by a 15th-century castle and set around two yacht-filled bays.
This chic part of town is where the super-wealthy moor their yachts while vacationing in the peninsula’s most exclusive resorts. If you like a bit of bouj, you can enjoy dinner at one of the high-end restaurants at the marinas. Milta Bodrum marina in the city centre and Yalikavak, 12 miles outside town, are two of the most extravagant in the area, and where you’ll also find plenty of designer stores.
Get lost in the lanes of the old town
Bodrum’s old town is a pedestrian area with many eye-catching lanes and alleyways that are hard to resist wandering down. It’s a labyrinth of souvenir shops, bazaars and restaurants. The bazaars are budget-friendly but often sell tacky souvenirs. That said, you may also find some deals such as leather sandals, soaps, and the cotton towels used in the hammam, made locally, high quality and low in price.
Bodrum Market, located upstairs in the bus terminal, is a great market selling good quality, reasonably priced clothing made from Turkish cotton or linen imported from Italy, amongst other things.
Hit the beach
The Turkish peninsula has no shortage of shoreline and boasts an impressive 67 Blue Flag beaches, so it should come as no surprise that being a beach bum is one of the most popular things to do in Bodrum.
While most tourists head to resorts with private beaches, if you’re not staying at a resort, not driving and don’t want to rely on public transport, there are two beaches in Bodrum Town, but they’re not that great. Central Beach, located east of the city, is lined with restaurants and offers a narrow beach area, while further east, Kumbahçe Beach is a favourite amongst locals.
For the best beaches, it’s worth travelling out of the city and along the peninsula to areas such as Bitez Beach – a horseshoe-shaped bay with calm waters and a long sandy beach with sun-loungers and cafes.
Visit Bodrum’s ancient sites
The Castle of Saint Peter (Bodrum Castle), also known as Bodrum Kalesi was built by the Knights of St. John in the early 15th century. It is the most prominent feature of Bodrum.
Because the Knights were a collection of people from Europe, the castle is representative of the collective cultures with five towers representing the different nationalities – British, French, German, Italian, and Spanish Towers.
Once a temple of gleaming marble and finely carved columns, the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus stood 50 meters tall and was capped with a marble sculpture of a four-horse chariot. Built in 351 BC to house the tomb of King Mausolus, it was the grandest mausoleum of its time and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Earthquakes destroyed the mausoleum of Halicarnassus in the 11th century, but you can still see the mausoleum’s polished stone and marble blocks built into the walls of Bodrum castle.
The city was surrounded by walls for protection against invaders and was only accessible through two monumental gates, one of which, the Myndos gate, is still partly intact. Inside, you’ll find only the foundations of the mausoleum at this original site as, surprise, surprise you’ll need to head to The British Museum to see the remaining relics of Halicarnassus Mausoleum, including scriptures and friezes.
The Museum of Underwater Archaeology
The Museum of Underwater Archaeology is also on-site and houses a collection of artefacts retrieved from shipwrecks around the coast. The museum’s exhibits include findings from shipwrecks in the Aegean Sea, close to the coast of Turkey. Two of the shipwrecks date back to the 11th and 14th centuries.
Check out the night life
Bodrum boasts one of the best clubbing scenes in Turkey, with many venues attracting headline acts in the summer. Most of the nightlife happens on Bar Street in the heart of the old town. Bar Street is a one-mile-long street parallel to the sea, so all the bars and restaurants on your right offer a sitting area on the beach with a scenic view of Bodrum Castle.
I did no more than walk along here in the evening, and it was giving sticky floors, questionably priced but cheap drinks and cheesy music vibes. That said, Bodrum town and Gumbet target the young package tourism market, and you’ll find a more sophisticated and exclusive vibe in Turkbuku if you can get in.
For a more authentic Turkish experience, visit Bodrum Meyhaneler Sokağı.
Take a boat trip around the peninsula
Bodrum’s natural beauty looks most impressive from the water, and boat tours along the rugged coastline are aplenty. You can jump in Bodrum’s turquoise waters at popular stops such as Orak Island, Black Island, Aquarium Bay and Rabbit Bay. Some tour packages include lunch or a barbecue. There are many operators and routes from which to choose. I did this boat tour with swim stops.
Take a dip in the Karaada Hot Springs
Karaada — or Black Island — is about 4 miles from Bodrum and is the largest island off the Bodrum coast. Here, you’ll find a cave with healing mineral springs, which you can enjoy for a small fee. The water is warm and sulfurous, which is beneficial for the skin.
There’s also a small waterside cafe where you can grab a snack before moving on. Many of Bodrum’s boat trips include Karaada in their itineraries, or you can rent a private boat or even a yacht if you have it like that.
Take a day trip to Kos
You can see the Greek island of Kos from Bodrum, as it’s only a mile across the water. You can reach Kos easily, and a day trip is worthwhile. Services run from both Bodrum and Turgutreis.
Check the timetable and book in advance in peak season. Remember that you’ll be crossing a border, so factor in the time needed for passport and visa checks. The ferry crossing takes approximately 20 minutes.
Visit Pamukkale
A day trip from Bodrum to Pamukkale is about a four-hour drive each way, but doable and worth it even if time is limited time. Pamukkale is the main reason I chose Bodrum over Istanbul because as soon as I saw its beauty, I had to visit, but it is too far from Istanbul for a day trip.
Pamukkale is covered entirely in white travertine (a form of limestone) formed by the calcium carbonate minerals from the hot spring. The mineral-rich water flows from the spring onto the rocks, whitening them as it leaves the residues behind.
Pamukkale means “cotton castle”, as it gives the impression of heaped cotton, and the whiteness appears from afar to resemble clouds. However, on first impression, it looked more like Antarctica had been plonked in the middle of green, rolling hills, as there was suddenly a gigantic white mountain.
There are numerous buses of tourists pulling up to witness this geological marvel. However, despite the many people visiting, it still felt therapeutic. It’s a large area, and you can find space to yourself the further you wander through the pools of thermal water. That said, it was low season when I visited, and I may have caught it on a good day. It can get crazy busy during the high season.
The water feels beautiful, warm and like bathing in a milky bath. Walking through the pools feels weird, and you can lose your footing – it was like my feet were wading through a milky clay. You can rub the mud on your body if you fancy a mud bath. Calcium deposits make for a coarse surface – tender-footed people be careful.
I didn’t want to leave.
Cleopatra’s Pool
Also on site are Cleopatra’s pool, a museum and the ancient ruins of Hierapolis, which includes an impressive amphitheatre.
The Antique Pool, commonly known as Cleopatra’s Pool, is situated above the white travertine at Pamukkale and fed by the same hot springs. In ancient times, visitors would flock here from across the Empire to bathe in the waters, soak up the rich minerals and seek the supposed healing qualities of the Spa to cure their ailments.
An earthquake caused the ancient city of Hierapolis to fall to ruins, and now some of the remnants are scattered in the thermal pool like an underwater museum. You can swim in warm, healing waters and float between fallen historic columns and white marble slabs of a 2,000-year-old Roman Temple.
It is believed that the pool was a gift from Marc Anthony to Cleopatra. Today, visitors can swim amongst the crumbled columns while they soak up a bit of history in the healing pool.
Flowering plants and trees in the lush garden around the pool contribute to the relaxing atmosphere, while just beyond the pool, you can see other ruins of Hierapolis. It’s honestly such a relaxing and unique experience. It felt like a natural massage.
Get a Turkish Hamam
A Turkish Bath, also known as a Hammam, is a traditional method of cleansing and relaxation that originated in the Ottoman Empire. It is a bathing ritual that involves steam, heat, and massage and is a social activity in Turkish culture. Noa Wellness offers great hammams and other spa packages.
Restaurant Recommendations
As far as dining goes, there is no shortage of Michelin-starred restaurants in Bodrum, but the thriving culinary scene also includes low-key authentic Turkish restaurants where the food is memorable.
Restaurant options are endless, but here are a couple of recommendations:
Arka Restaurant & Pizzeria – located on the beachfront and great for lunch if you can get a table outside.
For traditional Turkish food and atmosphere, visit one of the many restaurants in Meyhaneler Sokağı. My favourite restaurant here is The Kalamata. The food is exceptional, and the atmosphere is also great and authentic. I had a blast at The Kalamata – though I did gatecrash a wedding (haha). There are lots of seafood options which are from the market in the same complex.
What did I think of Bodrum?
As stated above, it was my first time visiting Turkey, and it was a toss-up between Istanbul and Bodrum. After checking out what tours were available for each place on Get Your Guide I went for Bodrum, as I wanted to visit Pamukkale, and a day trip was doable from there.
Though Bodrum has a reputation for opulence it can be whatever you want it to be – lively, relaxing, luxurious or traditional. Lux resorts to small family-run establishments and Michelin-star restaurants to mouthwatering, traditional Turkish food in an authentic atmosphere. However, had I stayed at a resort a bit further out in Gumbet, I don’t believe I would have got to experience Bodrum and its culture, but it depends on what you’re going for.
Bodrum offers a great mix of charming neighbourhoods, sightseeing, vibrant nightlife and turquoise waters. On my next visit, I would like to gain insight into traditional rural life in one of the nearby villages.
Overall, the small resort town of Bodrum offered more than I expected.
