After visiting certain countries, the questions I am asked the most by black women (and men) are along the same lines of, “would you recommend it as a black woman travelling solo?”, “Were there any problems with racism?” or “I’ve heard it’s racist over there”. This type of question/statement has become so frequent that I now take “How was it over there?“ to mean “any racism?”.
Travelling as a black woman shouldn’t be any different to generally travelling as a woman. However, in addition to general safety concerns and anxieties that most women have travelling solo, black women travelling solo may have further apprehensions, especially if solo travel is new to you.
My thoughts
Racism is everywhere, and experiences may vary depending on where you travel. But ultimately, travel is a powerful source in our life, and we should not be deterred from travelling to certain countries because of the possibility of ignorance. Furthermore, others’ experiences in a country, be they positive or negative, may not be yours and those experiences aren’t necessarily representative of the whole country.
Generally speaking, travelling solo can still make me anxious when travelling somewhere new. I may also consider the reception I will get as a black woman and the possibility of overt or casual racism in countries where black people are not in large numbers. However, it would be crazy for me to let this stop me. The more we are out there, the more inclusive travel will become, and consequently, ignorance and stereotypes are more likely to be displaced.
Solo travel has enriched my life more than I could ever have imagined (13 Reasons Why You Should Travel Solo). It has meant stepping out of my comfort zone, which has provided an opportunity for growth, new perspectives, and built confidence, and my presence has allowed me to educate while at the same time being further educated.
That said, travelling in 2020 did give me a heightened awareness as a black female travelling solo in the wake of worldwide protests following the murder of George Floyd. It could have gone one way or the other – people would be more racist or more educated and empathetic.
My experiences
Black people’s experiences abroad can vary greatly depending on various factors including, but not limited to, accent, gender, nationality, wealth and complexion. But, from my experiences, the following potential scenarios may or may not arise.
Where are you from?
Let’s look at it this way. Black people are not in huge numbers in every city or town worldwide, and though a woman travelling alone will attract some attention, a black woman travelling alone to some may be fascinating. People in certain countries may have had limited to no interaction with a black woman, which may lead to them being genuinely interested in who the new girl in town is and her country of origin.
Depending on how asked, I don’t immediately take offence to this question. However, it’s up to you if and how you choose to answer, but sometimes, interesting conversations may arise.
For example, when speaking to a lady in Italy, she asked where I was from. I replied I was born and raised in England. She then asked where my parents were from, to which I replied they were born in the Caribbean. The reason she was interested, she explained, was because she’s an anthropologist, and my bone structure reminded her of that of an Ethiopian. She wasn’t rude and explained her reasoning. It’s not the first time I’ve been told this, and the fact is, though I was not born in Africa, Africa was born in me. It’s in my DNA.
You may get the same from the few black people in the area, as they too will be interested in the background of the new solo black woman in town.
Are you American?
It’s become common for people to think I’m American during my travels as a solo black female. While in Egypt and on my recent visit to Italy, many people thought I was American. It could be because Britain is small, and there are fewer black people here than in America, but more likely due to the previous lack of representation and diversity in British media that leads to this assumption.
Call immigration
In some countries in Europe, I have been treated poorly by people while travelling as a solo black woman until I talk. In Paris, for example, people thinking I was an African immigrant were pretty dismissive of me, or staff would follow me around stores until they heard me speak.
It is often the case that even if their first instinct was to think of me suspiciously, being British has positively influenced their perspective. They may now assume that I have money to spend. Even if I do, I now won’t be spending it there.
Prolonged stares
One of the most common and annoying things I have experienced as a black woman travelling alone is people staring at me to the point that it’s uncomfortable.
It’s possible that some people who stare may have never seen a black person in the flesh, but a look and a smile, nod or “hi” makes all the difference. However, being stared at until it’s intolerable is rude and, quite frankly, pretty creepy. It is particularly unsettling when travelling as a solo female.
Being ignored
As a black woman travelling solo, I have been ignored when approaching people for help, directions etc. That said, people are not obligated to speak to or help me, it’s their prerogative, and we have to accept that some people are just plain rude.
While in Dublin, I approached a bus that was sitting stationary at the terminal with the doors open, and when I proceeded to ask a question, the driver took one look at me, closed the doors and drove off. Being disregarded can also happen in restaurants where staff can take their time to acknowledge you. When paying for a service, this level of ignorance is a whole different matter and will be dealt with accordingly.
Can I take a picture?
The fascination with a solo travelling black female has led to numerous occasions when I have been asked for a picture of me or with me. My feelings on this vary depending on the circumstances and the approach. If it’s in a way that is respectful and genuine, I don’t take offence, and it’s better to be asked rather than someone be snappy happy.
That said, there are times when we aren’t sure of people’s intentions, and in such circumstances, we must do what we are comfortable with and what feels right to us at the time.
Michelle Obama
Being called the name of a black celebrity in countries where few black people are present is common, and Michelle Obama is a popular one if you’re a black woman. For my male cousin, it was Wesley Snipes while travelling in Morocco.
For the record, Michelle Obama is a Queen, and being compared to her isn’t bad, but it is lazy, not my name, and reminiscent of that old dusty stereotype that all black people look the same. It gets a little tired and boring.
Aggression
Fortunately, I have not experienced any major incidents of aggression and hostility as a black woman on my solo female travels. However, when travelling as a group of black females in Barcelona, there was, and we had eggs thrown at us.
As if that wasn’t enough, on a separate occasion, we were then called prostitutes and scorned by a group of men, only later to be given side-eye by ladies who were sex workers as they thought we were taking their business. You couldn’t make it up!
Hyper-Sexualisation/fetishization
There are times as a black female travelling solo in countries where there are few black women that you may not be a fascination but a fetishization.
I was in conversation with a white guy significantly older than me at the hotel I was staying at in Italy. He made a point of telling me not far into the conversation that he is not attracted to white women, he likes black.
Random comments like this and “I’ve never been with a black woman before” set off alarm bells in my head. I don’t see it as a compliment or an act of admiration. Being one of three black women I had seen during my time there, it’s more likely I’m being viewed as an “exotic” object of your sexual desires where you place my value in my race.
I love being a black woman, but the reality is that I don’t think about my blackness 24/7. The first thought in my head when someone reacts to me positively or negatively is not that they are treating me as such because I’m a black woman. That said, encounters such as above have me second-guessing true intentions.
There’s more
During the conversation, he tells me he spends part of the year in Africa. The next evening I saw him, and he asked if I wanted to go back to his room to watch the football. Nah, you’re alright, mate.
That’s not to say that women generally are not dealing with sleaze, harassment and assumptions of men or any other issues concerning patriarchy. It is also true that many people like you for you, but I am alive to the fact that others fetishize black women or adopt negative stereotypes.
A bit of HerStory
The perception of black women as objects of sexual exploitation dates back to slavery when the concept of rape was never applied to her because she was assumed to have been a willing and promiscuous participant. As enslaved African women were viewed as property with insatiable appetites for sex, this was used as a justification for rape by their owners.
In contrast, enslaved men who engaged in relations with white women (whether consensually or forcibly) would be put to death.
My point is that the portrayal of black women as sexually promiscuous “jezebels” is an age-old stereotype that exists to this day. As a result, black women are all too often perceived as promiscuous, willing and accepting of whatever form of sexual proposition is thrown our way.
Mistaken for a local
As a black woman travelling solo, being treated differently isn’t always bad. In Brazil, for example, many people approached me speaking Portuguese and were shocked to learn that I was not Brazilian. In Egypt, on numerous occasions, I was greeted with “welcome home, sister”, called Nubian and at times believed to be Egyptian.
Not standing out as a tourist can result in greater invisibility which can bring some benefits, such as being offered further insight into the local area. That said, parts of Africa are so frequented by European tourists that while vacationing in resorts etc., I have been looked upon as the hired help.
The hair thing
The fascination with our hair can happen anywhere, but there is less hair etiquette in areas with few black people. I was in the south of France leisurely walking along, when out of nowhere I was ambushed by a man who put his hands all up in my afro while shouting “J’adore, J’adore”. I was shocked and felt violated, but it happened so quickly, and he minced off before I could do anything.
In Asia, I have heard numerous stories of black people’s hair being touched without permission.
Don’t get me wrong, I know Afro hair is beautiful and unique, but “J’adore” it from a distance. Invading our personal space by touching us without permission is a violation.
The look of solidarity
There are times as a black woman travelling solo that I’ve been the only black person I’ve seen for days. Upon finally seeing another melanated face, I want to raise my fist in solidarity. Instead, there’s often recognition by way of a subtle nod and smile upon seeing another black sister or brother.
The nod says many things. It says, “hey, finally, I thought I was on my own for a minute” it also says, “I see you”, and more. The nod is ultimately general camaraderie and affinity between brothers and sisters scattered in the diaspora.
Our Story
As a black woman travelling solo, I have had the chance to connect with myself through our rich history. The invader wrote the story. Therefore, at times it has meant researching my destination and putting the dots together to uncover things concealed about the history of our race.
When travelling to certain countries, we stare into the faces and walk in the footsteps of our ancestors. It further allows us to feel our connection with them, their contribution to the world and the empires they have built and feel incredibly proud that they made it against the odds for me to be standing here today.
Challenging stereotypes
If we allow it, travel can be a mutual educational exchange between us as the traveller and the people in the countries we visit by learning about each other cultures, places and people. In so doing, it’s possible that the stereotypes and preconceived ideas once held may be destroyed.
Some questions that may initially seem ignorant could lead to insightful and impactful conversations. Other times, they may lead to discomfort. Travelling solo means trusting your instincts and discerning what is best for you at that moment.
Conclusion
Overall, as a solo travelling black female, I have seen and experienced more good than bad. It is important to note that although ignorance is everywhere, you will find throughout your travels that there is more love in the world than hate. Furthermore, my experiences won’t necessarily be yours.
The perpetuation of tired narratives relating to black women can become linked to our identities. Solo travel allows us to let go of the opinions and expectations of others and be true to who we are without labels.
The reaction and reception people give us will vary, but ultimately, solo travel has given me greater confidence and a sense of self, and a true sense of self makes us unstoppable. After so long of being told how and what to be, our journeys have the power to dispel myths and define ourselves for ourselves.
What are your experiences? Comment below.