I had been eager to try West African fine dining restaurant Akoko since watching former MasterChef: The Professionals finalist William JM Chilila’s creativity and energy on the show. After mentioning the restaurant, which opened in October, it was high on my list, and with restaurants fully re-opening on 17 May, I decided to check it out. Unfortunately, William has since moved on, but the creativity has not.
Akoko, which means “the first” in Yoruba, utilises West African spices and flavours with a combination of British and African produce to create traditional West African dishes with a forward-thinking, imaginative twist.
Décor/atmosphere
The interior evokes a subtle feel of Africa’s natural landscape with earthy terracotta clay brown tones and wooden tables and chairs. The restaurant is dimly lit and warm, and contemporary African art and ceramics decorate the walls. The kitchen, situated at the rear of the restaurant, is open, displaying the chefs’ artistry and gives diners the option of being seated to watch them at work or dine in the main restaurant.
The Food
I dined from the diverse tasting menu, which currently offers the following dishes:
The restaurant accommodated my pescetarian diet by making the relevant substitutions.
The best bits
Just about all of it, really, but specifically, I loved the Yam Croquette, which had a delicious mushroom and truffle puree. The Smoked Fish & Tomato tart was also a winner.
The Guinness bread, which was substituted with salted butter with onion and charcoal ash, was also superb.
The Soup, layered with pureed pumpkin, crab and pickled pumpkin discs, had a variety of textures, and the Smoked Jollof Rice was a showstopper. I especially liked the Ivorian aubergine puree.
The slow-cooked turbot with Uhuru dressing nutmeg and leafy green sauce sounded and looked great but was pretty disappointing taste-wise though it was the only dish that was.
Dessert
The Boabab, hibiscus and lemon with raspberry oozing out of the centre was creative and tasted divine. And the Caramelised Agege, grilled pineapple, Iru Miso Ice-cream and brioche with ginger I can’t recommend enough.
There was also an unexpected, innovative treat in the form of a dark chocolate charcoal truffle stone and scotch bonnet fudge.
Drinks
In keeping with the unique tastes and spices, soft drinks include champagne yeast-fermented Ginger Beer and an intriguing Scotch Bonnet and Lemon Cordial, which I had to try. The combination works well and is refreshing with a slight after spice that warms the mouth and throat but doesn’t set it on fire.
The restaurant offers pre-dinner aperitifs and an extensive and varied wine list to suit all tastes and budgets.
Service
Service was flawless, and given that the on-off lockdown situation meant they had only been open for three weeks in total at the time of my visit, the whole team are doing an excellent job. Joe, my waiter, provided a seamless service and also talked me through each dish.
Price
Six courses and a soft drink came to £83 including service. Was it worth it? Yes! Akoko is a unique African dining experience, and if we support the likes of Nobu, etc., we should be doing the same here. I am hoping that we will see more of its kind.
Overall
It’s a great start from Akoko. The food is fantastic, and it’s a first-rate dining experience. They have proved resilient, and if they are starting at this standard despite the nightmare circumstances, it can surely only get better.
Book your table at Akoko
Address: 21 Berners Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 3LP
Closest tube station: Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road
