Rolling green hills, Arthur Guinness, rain and castles in abundance!!! Having never been to Ireland, I thought it was about time, but on informing friends that I was visiting Killarney, I was met with blank stares.
So, a little background
This small town, with a population of approximately 15,000, is a more traditional part of Ireland. As one of the leading tourist destinations for both Irish and foreign vacationists, Killarney receives more than 1.1 million visitors each year.
Based in southwest Ireland, in County Kerry, Killarney is branded “The Town in the Park” on account of the 26,000 acres of National Parkland it is surrounded by. Additionally, it is also one of the country’s most impressive heritage and tourist spots.
This locale has been sung about on many occasions and truly bestows meaning to the expression “Emerald Isle”. If you are planning on visiting Killarney, I hope this guide will assist.
How to get there
You can reach Killarney by flying into Kerry airport, which is approximately nine miles from the town centre. From there, if not driving, take the bus (No. 14 bus for €6 one way) or a taxi (approximately €35) https://kerryairport.ie/website/transport/#by-bus.
Currency
The Euro replaced the Irish pound and has been the currency in circulation in Ireland since 2002. Note that in the six counties of Northern Ireland (Fermanagh, Armagh, Tyrone, Derry, Antrim and Down), sterling (GBP) is the currency used.
Where to stay in Killarney
Killarney has the most tourist beds outside of Dublin, so you are spoilt for choice in terms of lodging. The variety also means there is accommodation to suit all budgets. Although there are some superb hotels beyond the town centre, I would recommend staying close to the town if on foot. Taxis are rather costly, and at the time of writing, Uber is not available.
A few recommendations
Dromhall Hotel
A family-owned 4* hotel five minutes’ walk from the centre of town.
Grand upon entering and reasonably priced, Dromhall displays old charm, feels homely, has a good breakfast selection and comfortable beds. It has 72 guestrooms, with amenities including a fitness centre, spa, pool and sauna.
The adjoining bar and brasserie are pleasant, with locals and families frequenting, though the atmosphere is somewhat more subdued than bars in town.
International Hotel
A 4* hotel situated in the heart of town and moments from Killarney National Park. The hotel is a blend of classical elegance and modern design featuring 98 guestrooms (Classic, Superior and Executive) over three floors.
Superior and Executive rooms come equipped with a Jacuzzi bath, and recreation amenities include a gymnasium, sauna and an arcade/game room or take in the view from the terrace (https://www.killarneyinternational.com).
Black Sheep Hostel
For those on a tighter budget or travelling solo and welcoming the opportunity to meet fellow travellers, try the Black Sheep Hostel.
The hostel is a newly renovated Georgian building providing adult-only accommodation in the heart of Killarney town. It has a shared lounge, kitchen and a garden with organic vegetables and free-range chickens.
The hostel offers private rooms and dormitories with pod-style beds made from recycled pallets with privacy curtain and a continental breakfast is available daily. (https://blacksheephostel.ie).
When to visit
The best time to visit depends on your requirement for sun v. seclusion. If you are not one for oversaturated tourist destinations, you may prefer to visit out of season.
Killarney thrives on tourism, which means it can be very congested and expensive during the summer months. Early spring, autumn and winter are good times to visit with fewer tourists and lower accommodation rates.
For the prototypical Killarney experience, which includes a boat tour around the lakes or a jaunting car through the Gap of Dunloe, you should be aware most boat and jarvey guides only operate from March – to October.
Getting around town
The town is small and situated beside Killarney National Park, so easy to navigate by foot.
The Jaunting Car
No visit to Killarney is complete without riding in a jaunting car (horse-drawn carriage). The jaunting car is the equivalent of a modern-day taxi and a popular mode of transport in Ireland in the days of old. It is now a favoured and fun way for tourists to explore parts of the National Park.
You can pick them up from the town centre. The drivers, known as Jarveys, are celebrated for their local knowledge, folklore and good humour.
Things to do
Killarney National Park
By foot, bicycle or jaunting car, take in the impressive scenery of Ireland’s oldest and largest national park. The park, together with Muckross House, was relinquished to the Irish state in 1932.
My time here was short, but you could easily spend a couple of days exploring the area. Though the weather was cold, the view of the misty mountains dusted with icing sugar was warming and picture-perfect. You may also spot native wild red dear roving freely throughout the area.
The park has no admission fee though some attractions only allow visitors inside on a guided tour for a nominal fee.
Muckross House
A 19th-century Victorian mansion positioned in the heart of Killarney National Park. Muckross estate dates back to the 17th Century. The house that stands today was completed in 1843 by the Herbert family, who were originally from Wales, and is situated in the middle of the three lakes of Killarney, offering splendid views.
Lakes of Killarney
The lakes of Killarney consist of three lakes – Muckross Lake, Upper Lake and Lough Leane. Sat in a low valley, they are surrounded by Ireland’s highest mountain range – The MacGillycuddy Reeks.
Lough Leane
Lough Leane, which translates to ‘lake of learning’, is the largest of the three lakes and contains several islands. You can take a boat trip to Innisfallen Island, to see the ruins of an abbey that dates back to 600AD. Lough Leane is also home to Ross Castle – take a boat from the pier for a unique perspective of the Park.
Muckross Lake
This lake is also known as the ‘Middle Lake’ or ‘The Torc’ and is Ireland’s deepest lake, reaching 75 metres (246ft) in parts and is home to Torc Waterfall.
Upper Lake
Upper Lake is the smallest and highest, but possibly the most scenic of the three lakes and is reached by travelling through the Gap of Dunloe.
Gap of Dunloe
A few miles from the town of Killarney and approximately seven miles long, the Gap of Dunloe is a gap between two mountains of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks and visible for miles around.
The scenic pass is one of the area’s most popular beauty spots. The river running through the gap is the River Loe from where the Gap gets its name.
As the road is very narrow in parts, hire a jaunting car to travel through the valley and return by boat via the captivating Upper, Middle & Lower Lakes to Ross Castle.
Ladies View
Ladies View is one of Ireland’s best-known panoramas. It rose to fame when Queen Victoria visited Killarney in 1861, staying at Muckross House.
Her ladies-in-waiting were so impressed by the view that they told everyone of their admiration of the landscape and the impression it had left on them. I was also awestruck, and no matter the weather, the beauty of this outstanding outlook is sure to be captured uniquely.
Torc Waterfall
Deriving its name from the Gaelic word ‘torc’ meaning wild boar – this eye-catching 20m-high waterfall wildly gushes down a series of rock steps 7km south of Killarney.
After being dropped at the car park, a 200-metre walk through the woodland brings you to the waterfall. It is best seen after heavy rain, which won’t be a problem in Ireland! For views of the Middle Lake, take a hike up the several steps adjacent to the waterfall.
Ross Castle
Ross Castle was built by O’Donoghue Mór in the 15th century. The castle was originally the home of Irish Chieftain O’ Donoghue Ross. It was one of the last castles in Ireland to surrender to the Cromwell Army during the Irish Confederate Wars in the 1650s.
The castle offers waterfront views overlooking Lough Leane and is open to the public from May until September by guided tour only. You can take the boat from here to Inisfallen Island and The Lakes of Killarney.
It’s what my Jarvey, Paul, referred to as an “ABC”, Another Bloody Castle! There is said to be over 30,000 castle ruins in Ireland. Some castles have been converted into tourist attractions and hotels.
Ring of Kerry
Take a drive along the circular and scenic route around the Iveragh Peninsula known as the “Ring of Kerry”. As well as providing insight into the ancient heritage of Ireland, it is famed for its wild, mystical and unspoilt beauty (https://derostours.com/).
The historic route is 111 miles of rugged coastline, taking in the colourful towns of Killarney, Beaufort, Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Caherdaniel, Sneem and Kenmare.
Waterville was a favourite holiday spot of Charlie Chaplin, and the village celebrates his memory every year with the Charlie Chaplin Comedy Film Festival in August.
It is possible to complete the trip in a day, but advisable to take some time to wander off route and explore the many charming towns and villages.
If driving, be prepared for narrow, winding roads at times engulfed with water. Roads close approximately half a dozen times during the winter due to adverse weather. The journey starts and ends in Killarney.
Restaurants & pubs
There are plenty of traditional pubs and fish n chip shops in the area and other dining options to suit all budgets.
Recommendations
Bricin – a popular choice offering traditional Irish food. They are famed for their Boxty (potato pancake) http://www.bricin.ie.
Meals for under €20 per person
Name: Quinlan’s Seafood Bar
Type of food: really good fish and chips and other seafood.
Recommended dish: fish and chips (hake).
Directions to get there: walk or taxi to the town centre. 77 High Street, Killarney(website: https://www.kerryfish.com/seafoodbar/killarney)
A top-level fish and chip shop with friendly service. Chips have a great bite, and there is no doubt about the freshness of the fish.
Out on the town
You can’t visit Ireland without having an obligatory pint of Guinness!
Established in Ireland in 1759, Guinness is the country’s world-renowned dark beer. As it doesn’t travel well, it is known to taste best in its native country than anywhere else in the world. I must concur it tastes better in Ireland for sure. I can’t usually stand the “black stuff”, but I downed a whole pint (and then some).
If you’re out on the town for a pint or two, here are a few recommendations – Sláinte!
J.M. Reidy’s (https://reidyskillarney.com)
This former grocery-cum-bar is a traditional Irish pub in the evening and coffee shop by day and is a hit with both locals and tourists. It is very quirky and a bit of a rabbit warren, with many compartments.
The Laurels (http://thelaurelspub.com)
The Laurels is a quaint, traditional, homely pub with an open fire, which is needed when it’s hammering it down with rain outside. It’s an ideal stop for Bailey’s coffee or lunch with friendly service.
Dunloe Lodge
An absolute blast and my ultimate favourite if out in the evening. Though it could be considered a bit rough around the edges, it is probably as traditional as it gets. The live Irish folk band is superb and the characters colourful. It’s fun, Irish pub culture. Join the sing-a-long and have a good laugh.
Summary
I thoroughly enjoyed visiting Killarney, and though it was different from how I usually holiday, as I am not one for the cold, I was thawed out by the welcoming people.
The town offers a taste of traditional Ireland, with its vast scenic countryside enjoyed no matter the weather – which is just as well because it’s more than likely going to rain. But how else would this charming little isle get so emerald?
