I received blank stares from everyone apart from a few Italians I told I was going to Tropea. I had never heard of it either before it came up as an option when looking for a last-minute holiday. It could be due to areas such as Rome, Venice and Amalfi grabbing tourists’ attention and the fact that it’s an hour away from the closest international airport, Lamezia Terme.
However, this lesser-known part of the country in the Calabria region though lacking in headline tourist attractions, excels in stunning shorelines. If you’re looking for an Italian beach holiday, less the deluge of Brits abroad, this is the place to be. Its relaxed vibes give you no option but to slow down and be embraced by its unique appeal.
So, where is Tropea?
The small laidback seaside town of Tropea is in Italy’s south. It’s on the east coast of Calabria, at the toe of the country’s boot and is known for its historic clifftop town, authentic villages, an impressive coastline of beaches and prized red onions.
The area is one of the least-known regions among the British but is a customary getaway for Italians. Therefore, you may struggle without a basic grasp of the language though not impossible to get by without it.
Getting there
Tropea’s closest international airport is Lamezia Terme, just over an hour’s drive or train ride away. You can get a shuttle bus from the airport to the train station for €1.50, from where you get a train for €4 to Tropea. Tickets can be bought before boarding from the small newsagent at the airport.
What’s Tropea like?
This quaint hilltop town rises 200ft out of the rocks and overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea. It oozes authenticity, charm and warmth and offers numerous standout beaches and traditional Italian cuisine. The town’s position on a cliff comes with dramatic scenery and steep inclines. The walk from the town centre to the sea involves descending flights of steps or a hill and is a good leg workout.
Tropea is part of the Calabrian stretch of coastline known locally as “Costa degli Dei” (the “Coast of the Gods”) and is a standard summer holiday destination for Italians. A testament to its authenticity. Internationally though, Tropea is still relatively unknown but is on the brink of full exposure.
Calabria is historically a poorer and less developed region of Italy. Therefore Tropea is not overdeveloped or overrun with luxury resorts and hotels but is rustic, shabby-chic and reminiscent of an old-fashioned picture postcard (Gen Z be like – “What’s a postcard?”).
Best time to visit
Tropea is undoubtedly a summer destination, but July and August are very crowded. May, early June, late September and October are great times to visit with summer weather but no summer crowds.
Things to do in Tropea
There’s not a great deal to do in Tropea in the immediate vicinity. It is more of a relaxation holiday. However, here are my recommendations. Also, check out Get Your Guide for a list of tours.
1. Hit the beach
As far as beach holidays go, Italians will tell you this is the place to be. Beaches are Tropea’s most prominent feature, and around a dozen belong to the area. The beaches are seductive, and the tepid water is a dreamy combination of blues from turquoise to azure. A mixture of private and public beaches are easily accessible from Tropea’s old town.
Tropea beaches are edged by cliffs and spotted with caves and impressive rock formations. However, unlike Amalfi, the beaches are large and sandy, have fewer tourists and prices in Tropea are significantly cheaper. There are fee-charging beach establishments with sunbeds and parasols or stretches of free beach on either side of the town.
The main beaches in town are Rotonda Beach and the beach of Marina dell Isola, with an iconic view of the sanctuary at the peak.
2. Visit the Old Town
Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the main street running directly through the old town, with a selection of pricy touristy bars, restaurants, souvenir shops etc. For something more authentic, get lost in the narrow winding alleys leading to the back streets where more unique restaurants and bars are located, as well as some eye-catching old buildings to admire.
Also, check out some of the many street food establishments for things such as delicious pistachio and mozzarella arancini.
At the end of Corso Vittorio Emanuele are Belvedere Piazza del Cannone and Affaccio del Corso, from where there are exceptional views of the Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola, the town and the Aeolian Islands in the distance. The position of the old town on a cliff makes the view down across the town all that much more striking. Another point of interest in the town is the Norman Cathedral.
3. Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola
A visit to the Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola involves climbing up the 300 steps carved into the rock that leads to a 6th-century Benedictine monastery. The views from here are well worth the climb as it overlooks the sea, and you can see Stromboli in the distance. It’s a nice place to watch the sunset and a peaceful chill-out area.
It’s free to visit the church itself, but paying the modest fee of three euros allows access to the garden behind it, which is a tranquil oasis with huge cacti, olive and fig trees and enjoys a spectacular outlook of the rugged coastline and beaches.
Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola is one of the most advertised locations in Calabria and is an emblem of the entire region.
4. Capo Vaticano
The cliffside town of Capo Vaticano is home to some of the most immaculate beaches in the Calabria region, and boat tours to here are one of the most popular things to do in Tropea.
Embark on a boat tour from the Port of Tropea along the coast to Capo Vaticano while enjoying stops for swimming and snorkelling in the turquoise Mediterranean waters with Costa degi Dei Tours.
The tour includes visiting three bays of the coast and having the opportunity to dive in from the boat and swim and snorkel in the clear Calabrian sea with various fish. The boat has a bar and sundeck, and the company offer an aperitif and delicious bruschetta during the cruise.
5. Wine Tour
Wine is produced in every region of Italy, and there are over 350 official wine varieties, so I think it’s fair to say that both food and wine are important to Italians. Italian wineries range from small family-owned vineyards to grandiose estates sprawled over hundreds of hectares.
Masicei Winery is a young family-owned winery in the Tropea region. Starting in 2012, this four hectares of vineyard produce 12 to 14k bottles a year and have 100 per cent organic cultivation.
The owner is passionate about his craft, and it’s an informative tour of the wine-making process. The scenery from the vineyard set among the countryside with striking views of Stromboli alone makes the trip worthwhile. Add to this the opportunity to sample a selection of antipasti and various wines with no hangover, making it a must-do while in Tropea.
6. Taste Red Onion Gelato
The Calabria region is known for its sweet red onions. You see them everywhere in Tropea – hanging on doors etc. The versatility of this onion means that it appears in many dishes. In Calabria, these sweet red onions are eaten raw in salads, cooked in sauces, made into jam, and even in Gelato!
Visit Tonini Gelato in the town for a red onion gelato that I’m convinced only crazy tourists try (myself included). It was weird and pretty gross, but not as bad as the nduja flavour, which was disgusting.
7. Try Tartufo
Everyone’s heard of Gelato, but what about Tartufo?
Tartufo is an ice cream truffle that originates in the Calabria region up the road in Pizzo and is also popular in Tropea. It’s a frozen ball traditionally made with chocolate and hazelnut ice cream with a chocolate sauce centre and dusted with cocoa powder.
Today, there are many takes on the original. It is generally composed of two or more flavours of ice cream, with a chocolate or fruit centre and covered in a shell of chocolate, cocoa, cinnamon or nuts.
I tried the Pistachio, which is delicious!
8. Visit the Aeolian Islands
The Aeolian Islands are a seven-island archipelago located off the coast of north-eastern Sicily. The archipelago was formed by volcanic activity, and two islands are still active volcanoes (Stromboli and Vulcano). It is possible to witness Stromboli from Tropea and often see it puffing away in the distance.
The Aeolian islands’ dramatic scenery, hot mud baths, and the opportunity to hike up to the craters of Vulcano and Stromboli make it a popular excursion. There are day tours from Tropea, which allow the opportunity to visit three of the islands.
You will have to work out whether this is a good use of your time as most full-day Aeolian Islands tours from Tropea are around 12 hours long and include a lot of time on a boat. Itineraries vary but generally consist of 90 minutes on Stromboli, two hours on Lipari and a short visit to Vulcano.
The islands are grouped together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lido del Nonno
Described by a local as his favourite lido, Lido del Nonno has character, as does its good-natured owner, Cono. I highly recommend this restaurant and lido for a step away from the tourist kerfuffle to experience authentic Italian food and hospitality. It’s not a posh place in town, but it is real – real food and real people on a lovely stretch of beach where the day can slip away.
Lido del Nonno is a short walk from the own next to the port of Tropea.
In Summary
Upon leaving Tropea, it felt like I left a piece of myself there and took a new bit away. It’s a magical little village of great magnetism that’s on the verge of being well-trodden. I am glad few people had heard of Tropea, and I got there when I did to enjoy it for its underrated pleasures while it lasts.
