I feel like I’ve been grounded for a while. Life has lifing, and to be honest, my Brazil trip humbled me. It was like one of those trips of a lifetime – stretching the comfort zone, culturally rich, wholesome, and transformative.

I’m now in Crete, which I booked before I went to Brazil. I don’t think I’ve ever been so unenthusiastic about a holiday, so much so that I didn’t even pack my case until a few hours before my flight.

To top it off, in a weird turn of events, it is currently hotter in England than in Crete. It’s my first day here, and I woke up to grey skies and drizzle, and the hottest heat I’ve felt so far is at the resort spa in the sauna and steam rooms.

However, I plan to make the most of it as I am celebrating me, myself and I and the positive shift that has taken place over the past year, taking me to the next level in the becoming of ReyRey.

Hersonissos

To be honest, I only visited Hersonissos as it came up as an option on my parents’ timeshare and was a cheap getaway. I flew into Heraklion, which is 25 kilometres from Hersonissos and a taxi cost €45 to Village Heights Resort, where I would stay for a week.

Village Heights is a great resort, but it is located in the hills and pretty isolated. However, it provides a shuttle service to Hersonissos town and Old Hersonissos.

Luckily, it was Old Hersonissos that I got off at first. Old Hersonissos is a village located on the slope of a mountain above the busy and commercial resort town located below. It neighbours two other authentic Greek villages, Pskopiano and Koutouloufari. It was Koutouloufari that captivated me the most, and where I would end up spending most of my time.

Had I seen the coastal strip in the town of Hersonissos first, I would have been put off and probably would have wanted to depart on the next flight.

Hersonissos esplanade

The Hersonissos strip in town, often referred to as “Bar Street,” is frequented mostly by Brits abroad who want to feel like they’re in England. There you will find Irish pubs, burgers and chips, and general inauthenticity, and the area is deemed the heart of nightlife in Hersonissos.

The strip’s location is along Agias Paraskevis Street, and the area stretches from the port to the main beach, offering a mix of bars, clubs and restaurants.

On my second day, I walked along here and had to take shelter as it was still raining. You’ll find people at the front of their establishment inviting the public in, and I can imagine it’s like Blackpool in the evening.

One guy standing outside of a restaurant touting for business invited me in, “Come in, have a drink, and a shot”. I asked if they served food as it was lunchtime and I hadn’t yet eaten breakfast. “We don’t do food, but I can order you something to eat from across the road”. I went in and sat down, and he brought over some menus, both food and drink, and he said, “I can get you a burger and chips or pasta”. I felt insulted, “burger and chips”, I proclaimed. “I don’t even eat burgers and chips in England”. I got up and left.

When I visit a country, I want to experience their culture and food, not England’s lack of it. I couldn’t leave the area fast enough. It’s raining and I’m offered a burger and chips to eat. I really could be in England.

The strip of “beach” behind the row of restaurants has black sand and is alright to view from a restaurant, but not the sort of beach you plan to visit to sunbathe, swim and stroll. For a decent nearby beach, Potamos Beach was recommended.

Koutouloufari

The small, quaint village of Koutouloufari sits above the strip of Hersonissos some 100 metres above sea level on a gently sloping mountain with narrow paved streets, age-old stone houses, and tavernas serving local food.

The village offers traditional Cretan culture and a peaceful retreat from the town. There are only around 600 residents, and it doesn’t feel crowded, but that may change during peak season.

Things to do

There is not much to do in the village itself, but as Koutouloufari is near the busiest tourist area in Crete, stretching from Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos, there are many beaches, attractions, sights and activities, and it is near archaeological sites such as Knossos and Malia. However, the village is a quiet environment with a traditional flavour and a lovely view of the Sea of Crete. 

Basically, I ate and drank my way through the village for the first few days, and then when the sun finally put its hat on, I went on a tour to Agios Nikolaos and Spinalonga Island through GetYourGuide.

I felt I only needed one tour, so most of my time was spent in Koutouloufari, where it felt like going to a family’s house to eat. In the evenings you can drink raki and dance under the moonlight to local Cretan music.

Where to eat

There are numerous tavernas and bars in restored houses, all of which are welcoming, warm and hospitable. Tavernas serve as important social hubs for communities. They’re a place where people meet friends and family, discuss the day’s events, celebrate, and simply enjoy each other’s company over food and drink.

The dining scene is superb, and from what I’ve seen so far, a bad dining experience doesn’t exist in Koutouloufari.

Rustico – a traditional taverna with bags of great energy, delicious Cretan wine and generous portions of home-style Greek dishes. Everything I ate was good, but I especially liked the mussels with ouzo, which I ordered many times and the Dolmadakia (Greek Grape Leaves with Rice) and Tzatziki were the best I have ever tasted.

They also kept giving me free raki with lemon, one of the best rakis I had, as it makes it easier to go down (though that can also make it lethal). Sit out the front and watch the world go by.

Nikos the Fisherman – I have never thought of putting prawns or octopus with hummus, but it was delicious times two when I had it. The food here is superb, and the free homemade cheesecake made me love cheesecake, which I thought I didn’t like. Mum cooks here, and you can taste the love in the food.

The restaurant is calmly decorated in sailors’ whites and blues, and the terrace upstairs is great for people watching.

Fabrica – The guy that owns this place is so lovely, and the haloumi on pita is magnificent. You can’t pass this place without going in. The owner’s charm will pull you in.

Pithari – the oldest place in the village, and they do a lip-smacking sagnaki.

Megan’s Greek family traditional taverna – I stopped here for a drink. The family are lovely and the daughter is a little star.

Billy’s Grill-Bar – I only stopped here for a drink, but it’s a cute and authentic place with delicious local wine and beautiful people.

It may have rained for the first few days but the people warmed me

I was in Crete for a week and the weather was abissmal for the first few days, and as said above, what made it worse is that it was hotter in the UK. The first couple of days, I was thinking I may have been better off back in the UK, but then I reframed it to look at the beauty on offer, come rain or shine. Add to that, life is not always sunshine and roses. Weirdly, this trip gave me perspective and was good to get something different from a holiday.

Though the weather was initially inclement, the people warmed me with their friendliness. As a solo black travelling female, it can’t be overstated how much this means. The Greek people were a vibe, kind, welcoming and always giving me something free – dessert, Cretan wine and raki. 🤪

By the end of the trip, I was thinking I should have booked to stay an extra day, and then lo and behold, my flight got cancelled, and I had an extra day in the sun with the beautiful people of Koutouloufari, and continued to eat and drink my way through the village. The power of the mind is real!

Koutouloufari is definitely for those who are too old and/or sophisticated for the strip of Hersonissos and who want to experience Crete and Greece in its authenticity.

Though Crete has several beaches, I don’t think that was ever going to be the main draw for me after strolling the beaches in Boipeba. However, I did want to visit Elafonisi in Chania, the north of the island, but the inclement weather hampered that, so it is an excuse to visit again.

Thank you, Koutouloufari, you authentic gem – Yamas